Afro Hair Care: How to Care for Chemically Damaged Afro Hair

A twist-out is one form of protective styling. - ACS
A twist-out is one form of protective styling. - ACS
Restoring chemically damaged hair means adapting to healthier styling options.

“Fried, dyed, and laid to the side”, is a phrase often used to describe over-processed hair. Chemical relaxers and hair dyes provide styling options for women of color. Sporting bone-straight locks in luscious hues of color may make you feel like you’re stylin’, but these same chemicals can result in dry, brittle, damaged hair; it can take months—and in many case, years—to revive unhealthy tresses. While you can’t take back the years spent on harsh styling practices, you can embark on restorative hair care regimen to help breathe new life into those tired, lifeless locks.

Starting off with a Clean Slate

When on a mission to revive over-processed, over-treated hair, one of the best things to put you on the right track is to start off with a clean slate. This means cutting away damaged hair and split ends. Parting with the hair length you so painstakingly grew may seem disheartening at first. Those determined to hold onto to split ends for the sake of length do themselves the disservice of hindering hair growth; getting rid of bad hair sets the stage for healthy hair growth. Furthermore, showing off a head of shorter hair, free from split ends is far more attractive than longer hair with ragged ends.

Giving Hair the Care It Deserves

For hair to grow, a clean environment is necessary. This involves regular shampooing least once a week, followed up with a conditioner, specifically conditioners that contain moisturizing ingredients. Opt for penetrating conditioners that contain ingredients like animal proteins and keratin. These conditioners absorb into the hair, giving it bounce and life. Protein conditioners should be on damaged hair after every wash. Simply apply conditioner to the hair, cover with a plastic cap and leave the cap on for 15 minutes. Next, rinse the conditioner out of the hair, thoroughly rinsing until the water runs clear. Rinsing all traces of conditioner out of the hair is necessary for preventing residue build-up which can cause limp hair.

To keep the hair moisturized throughout the day, a daily moisturizer is recommended. Since black hair is naturally dry, keeping it well-moisturized is necessary. A good moisturizer to use is shea butter. Shea butter is naturally derived from West Africa’s Karite tree, and helps nourish the hair and protect it from harsh weather elements; it prevents hair dullness, helps restore sheen, thus making it ideal for dry, over-processed hair.

Stopping Bad Hair Practices

One of the first measures toward a healthier head of hair is to simply stop bad hair practices altogether. Prolonged use of chemical relaxers and hair dyes can lead permanent hair damage. Non-chemical hairstyling methods to avoid are those involving heat styling tools like curling irons, flat irons and blow dryers. Get into the habit of using less invasive hairstyling methods like using roller sets or protective styles such as braid-outs and twist-outs. You may even consider giving your own hair a break and wearing a wig. Wigs—available in both synthetic and human hair—come in variety of styles and offer the convenience of quick style changes without requiring heat or putting chemicals in the natural hair. If you absolutely must use heat on the hair, use only sparingly and be sure to put a heat protectant on the hair before doing so. Heat protectants coat the hair shaft, providing it with a barrier of protection.

When it comes to hair products, avoid products that are alcohol-based. Certain ingredients like isopropyl alcohol leave the hair vulnerable to breakage. Avoid any hair product made from petroleum oil and mineral oil. Derived from crude oils, both of these products coat the hair with plastic wrap-like substance. Worse yet, they block the hair follicles and impede proper scalp ventilation, resulting in a lack of hair growth. Another ingredient to watch out for is polyethylene glycol (PEG). This ingredient is most often found in hair thickening products but can actually end up stripping natural moisture out of the hair.

Eating Right

While practicing good habits on the hair itself, don’t forget the importance of good nutrition. The foods you eat are as important to your hair’s health as the hair products used. Nutrition to help produce healthy hair includes proteins, fresh fruit and vegetables and good fats. Remember to drink six to eight glasses of water every day and take a daily multivitamin supplement.

Just because the hair is damaged doesn’t mean it can’t be healthy again. But healthy hair means doing away with abusive hair regimens. And the good news is, it’s never too late to start.

Disclaimer: The information contained in this article is not intended as professional advice. Please consult a professional where necessary.

Sources

The Pennsylvania Child Welfare Training Program: Hair and Skin Care for African American and Biracial Children

Treasured Locks: Black Hair Care Tips, Style and FAQs

Shea Butter By Esan: Shea Butter FAQs

Hair Finder: The Special Needs of African American Hair

Aretha C. Smith, ACS

Aretha C. Smith - Aretha's professional writing career spans 10 years. With her education in information management she has worked in a variety of settings, ...

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